Mary Blickenderfer, Extension Educator
One good source of plant material for shoreland restoration projects is hand-collected seed from local native stands. Hand-collected seeds may be broadcast directly at a restoration site, or plants grown from the seed may be used. Plants produced from locally collected seed will be adapted to local site conditions. In addition, native seed collecting is a great way to increase one’s native plant repertoire and become familiar with the ecology of a plant – under what soil-sun-moisture conditions it grows, what other plants are naturally associated with it, whether it occurs in small patches (“accent plant”) or in large beds (“matrix plant”), when it blooms, its height, etc.
Before you collect
- Know the plant species you’re collecting. Don’t collect aggressive species that may cause problems later. Also, make sure the species is not listed as “threatened” or “endangered” or on the state/federal list of “noxious weeds.”
- Obtain permission to collect seed if not on your own private property.
- Consider marking the plants while they are at a stage that they can be most easily identified. For flowers, this will be when they are in bloom. For grasses and sedges, this will be when they set seed. This will facilitate accurate identification and ease of locating them during collection later in the season.
- Select only large populations of plants for collecting.
- Monitor these plants as they mature, testing the seed for ripeness. To test seed, press a kernel between your thumbnail and finger. Seed kernels will go through several stages before they are ready to collect: first milky juice, “soft dough” (like soft bread dough), “hard dough” (like stiff cookie dough), and finally firm (hard to the touch). Seed is ready to harvest when firm.
Collecting seed
When collecting seed make sure you bring paper bags for the “dry” seed (e.g., grass, aster, bergamot) and/or plastic bags for the “wet” seed (e.g., Jack-in-the-pulpit, Solomon’s seal and other seed surrounded by pulp or seed that needs to remain moist to maintain viability), marking pen, scissors or pruners, and a pack to carry these items.
Collect seed according to the “1/3 Rule” (i.e. collect no more than 1/3 of the seeds from 1/3 of the seed heads of 1/3 of the plants in any given population). Cut, prune, or hand-strip seed heads, placing the seed in a bag. Be sure to label each bag with the following information: date, state (if collecting in more than one), county, specific location (lake, nearest city, etc.), plant name or identifying # (be sure the label includes the complete scientific name, even if you have to look it up and add it after returning home), collector, and other notes (about quality of seed, insect damage, unusual growing season or site information, etc. – as necessary).
After you collect seed
A general rule for flower species with seeds that reach maturity in early summer – June or July (e.g., trillium, bellwort, bloodroot, violets, marsh marigold, Canada anemone) is to plant the seeds immediately in soil and keep watered through the growing season. This will maintain their viability and fulfill the first stage of the requirements for breaking dormancy. Note that trillium, bellwort, bloodroot, and violet seed have a fatty appendage called an “eliasome.” Ants carry these seeds into their anthills where they eat only the high-nutrient eliasome and inadvertently plant the seeds.
For most grasses and seeds that reach maturity in late summer and fall, hang bags of “dry” seed in a warm, dry place to thoroughly dry, stirring seeds occasionally. Keep bags of “pulpy” seed at room temperature until you are ready to clean. If they start fermenting, refrigerate until ready to clean. Seed cleaning, storing, and growing techniques will be covered in upcoming issues of this newsletter. Beware - seed collecting can be addicting!
Reference:
Baskin, C. and J. Baskin. 1998. Seeds – Ecology, Biogeography, and Evolution of Dormancy and Germination. Academic Press: London. 666 pp.